I got up late-ahhhhh. I did two loads of washing, light and dark. I tidied up as Tony and Francoise are coming home tomorrow evening, but I will be off to Stratford-upon-Avon at the Royal Shakespeare company watching Much Ado About Nothing for most of the day, so time to tidy today. At least the crumbs will be fresh crumbs when they arrive tomorrow.
I got on the bus, where there is always drama. Today's drama was a mom and young grandmom and a kid in a stoller and 4 more hanging around. There is a special place for elderly and stollers on the bus, and one of those places is just past the stairs to the upper level. The older children, maybe age 8-10, were playing on the stairs. So, the driver, who can see them in his cctv monitor, stopped the bus and warned the family that they would have to get off at the next stop if they didn't keep the kids off the stairs while the bus is in motion as they could get hurt if the driver has to slam on the brakes. He got some lip from the older woman, but they were all getting off at the next stop anyway, and the rest of the bus was clearly in support of the bus driver.
I'll digress to the drama on last week's bus. A little old man who looked like something out of the Hobbit-bald head except for thin whisps of white hair standing out all over his head, told me about how his cell phone was lying to him and the operators should be fired for lying to him because he knows that the number he calls is a legitimate number because it is in his phone but the operator insists that it is not. He quieted down for the ride, but just before I got off he was telling someone on the phone about it.
Easy ride to London Paddington today. The goal was to get reservations for trains in France. I remember from last year that this is such a good idea. So, easy underground from Paddington to Picadilly and then a walk down Picadilly Road. Getting around in the underground is so easy this year as there are helpful people all over the place volunteering for the Olympics. If you approach a map they will alight next to you and offer to help. A young woman escorted me to the correct exit and off I went. The thing I forgot was that the streets are numbered differently in London. Not so much odds on one side of the street and evens on the other as a sequence of numbers on one side of the street and quite another one on the other. So, in my search for 193 Picadilly I was walking way down the street past the Royal Arts Society and noticed that they have the Impressionists exhibit I have been seeing advertized in the underground. I decided it was a sign that I should go back after acomplishing my task for the day. I did have a wait at the Travel Center, but after a vigorous walk a nice sit down in AC is a welcome thing. Summer has definitely come to GB. ( I got my black hoodie and my black vest in the wash this morning)
So, mission accomplished at the Travel Center. Turns out I only need reservations for the day I go into Paris. In order to get from Brussels to Rouen you have to go through Paris. This involves the little trick I had to learn last year in which you land at one train station in Paris and either take the metro or a taxi to another station across town. I'm hoping my train has taxi reservations. The little tv in the Travel Center showed the distance from Paris Nord to Paris St Lazare and it is not so far. Anyway, the trip back from Rouen to Calais will require two changes, but they are on local chuggers and won't require reservations. The reservations maker tried to get me to take the Eurostar back from Paris because it was faster, but I told him that it was about the romance of the ferry crossing and he let go of the idea.
So, with tickets in tow I headed for the RA. I waltzed right in and paid my admission to this special exhibit. These paintings are from the Clark collection. Some of you familiar with upper New York and western Mass may have actually seen these paintings. The Sterling and Franncie Clark Institute in Williamston, Mass. Sterling was a Singer Sewing Machine heir and his wife, Francine was a French actress. They spent their lives collecting art. It was a fantastic show to see before going to Normandy as Monet and Manet were well represented with scenes from the Norman coast. I'm sure I'll see more of the Impressionists soon.
When I was done with art I took a stroll back down Picadilly stopping at the little flea/crafts market and then on to a little Wagamama store where they serve individual sushi pieces or packets for fairly cheap, and I had a snack. Easy trip home including sitting by a group of very proud Jamacians on the bus.
Tomorrow, the bard.
KG
Friday, August 10, 2012
Thursday, August 09, 2012
Tewkesbury
I am managing the unknown by making friends. Today I got to the bus station in Gloucester and the 71 bus to Tewkesbury was not in though it was due. I asked a man a few questions about the bus and of course it got a conversation going. The conversation continued on the bus and included the mans cousin who was out for a day trip with him. They pointed me in the right direction when we got into town. Just before the cathedral I stopped at a pub for lunch. This is the chain of pubs, Weatherspoons, that appeals to pensioners because of their low cost meals. I had just gotten my burger and pint when the two guys walked in. They asked to join me, so we had lunch together. They were good company. Both born in 1933 within a month of each other. They remembered being boys when the D-day aircraft flew all night over their houses.
After swapping stories I passed on the pud and made my way to Tewkesbury Abbey. It was pretty wonderful. I was reminded that maintenance is quite an issue for these big buildings. As I walked around the front the Vicar was meeting with the guys with the bucket lift and they were watching sides of the abbey crumble under their fingers. Just surface crumble, but... The Vicar got a ride in the lift so that he could pluck some ivy from an adjacent building.
Eventually I made my way back to the bus, and who do you think showed up? So me and my guys chatted all the way back to Gloucester. Three pensioners on a day out.
Back at home I see that my camera decided to shoot RAW, so now I have to figure out how I'm going to edit them. Could be sometime before Tewkesbury appears on the photoblog.
Tomorrow is a rest day, thought I may make it into London in the afternoon to make reservations for the train in Frace.
KG
After swapping stories I passed on the pud and made my way to Tewkesbury Abbey. It was pretty wonderful. I was reminded that maintenance is quite an issue for these big buildings. As I walked around the front the Vicar was meeting with the guys with the bucket lift and they were watching sides of the abbey crumble under their fingers. Just surface crumble, but... The Vicar got a ride in the lift so that he could pluck some ivy from an adjacent building.
Eventually I made my way back to the bus, and who do you think showed up? So me and my guys chatted all the way back to Gloucester. Three pensioners on a day out.
Back at home I see that my camera decided to shoot RAW, so now I have to figure out how I'm going to edit them. Could be sometime before Tewkesbury appears on the photoblog.
Tomorrow is a rest day, thought I may make it into London in the afternoon to make reservations for the train in Frace.
KG
Wednesday, August 08, 2012
Kenilworth
Getting to these places is always a venture into the unknown. The train is fairly straightforward and there are always plenty of very knowledgable people to help. The buses are something else. I got off the train in Leamington Spa this morning and headed into town in search of the x17 bus to Kenilworth. Kenilworth is a town and a castle.
I had to make inquiries about the bus station and was pointed in the right direction. It's really not a proper bus station, but the Stagecoach bus stops at the little glass bus waiting shelters on the High Street. The first bus I approached was indeed the x17, but it was going the wrong way and I was redirected across the street. Luckily the bus wasn't there and the post office was across the street, so I was able to get a stamp for Aunt Alva's belated birthday card, and by the time I had accomplished the queue the bus had arrived. I got a round trip ticket and boarded the bus. I began asking people around me about where I should get off to see the castle. Everyone I asked was getting off before me so they couldn't prompt me, and they gave directions that didn't include clearly identifyable landmarks. Finally an older than me couple sat behind me and not only did they tell me where to go, they took me there through a little park where the old abbey was. They take the bus (presumably with their senior free passes) every day and choose a route to walk. Very sweet, and today very handy for me.
Kenilworth Castle was worth the trouble getting there and the extensive walking and stair climbing required. I was able to get a nice roast beef sandwich on local baked bread with rocket and horseradish mayo in the old stable which also houses a brief history of the castle/castles. I was as charmed as Sir Walter Scott, and I have downloaded his book about Kenilworth to my blackberry kindle (for free). I can hardly wait to get the photos edited so I can share them with you.
By the time I had walked over all the grounds and seen everything I felt like the 4 year old who was quite clear to his Mum that it was time to go. He and Mum went to the car park and drove away. I hobbled down the lane. I decided to go the shorter way back into town and managed to do that the first try. Next was finding the bus. Since I was right in front of the public library/tourist information I was able to get directions without walking out of my way. The hitch was that x17 seems to take the middle of the day off. I say "seems" as I found the bus schedule after 13:00 impossible to read. Eventually bus 12 arrived and since it went to Leamington Spa, I got on. I should say that I got on because of a charitable bus driver. My return ticket for the x17 wouldn't work on the 12, and my pocket change was less than 1pound 90. I did have some pence over one pound, so bus driver let me ride for all my pocket change. Double bonus for me. Getting rid of all those coppers was beginning to be worrysome to me. It was a nice long ride through countryside that I hadn't seen before and it ultimately dropped me much closer to the rail station. 10 minute wait for the train and I was headed home. Once I make it to the train I can be assured that I will be offered light refreshments. So, I got a little lemonaide which seems to come carbonated here, and a small bottle of water and I allowed the train guy to talk me into a chicken and bacon sandwich which was quite good. Spoiled my appetite for dinner, but leftover rice pilaf and sauted brussels sprouts with pancetta make a good dinner nevertheless.
Plan A for tomorrow is Tewkesbury. It's another day of train to the bus and then find the abbey. I might work up the energy to go upstairs and use Tony's computer to print out a map. Luckily I already know where the bus station is in Gloucester and it is convenietly next to the train station. Train to the bus, bus to the town, and walk to the abbey.
I'm also entertainig ideas of going to the matinee of Much Ado About Nothing on Saturday. It's the Indian version. Looks pretty spectacular. Luckily there are no busses involved.
KG
I had to make inquiries about the bus station and was pointed in the right direction. It's really not a proper bus station, but the Stagecoach bus stops at the little glass bus waiting shelters on the High Street. The first bus I approached was indeed the x17, but it was going the wrong way and I was redirected across the street. Luckily the bus wasn't there and the post office was across the street, so I was able to get a stamp for Aunt Alva's belated birthday card, and by the time I had accomplished the queue the bus had arrived. I got a round trip ticket and boarded the bus. I began asking people around me about where I should get off to see the castle. Everyone I asked was getting off before me so they couldn't prompt me, and they gave directions that didn't include clearly identifyable landmarks. Finally an older than me couple sat behind me and not only did they tell me where to go, they took me there through a little park where the old abbey was. They take the bus (presumably with their senior free passes) every day and choose a route to walk. Very sweet, and today very handy for me.
Kenilworth Castle was worth the trouble getting there and the extensive walking and stair climbing required. I was able to get a nice roast beef sandwich on local baked bread with rocket and horseradish mayo in the old stable which also houses a brief history of the castle/castles. I was as charmed as Sir Walter Scott, and I have downloaded his book about Kenilworth to my blackberry kindle (for free). I can hardly wait to get the photos edited so I can share them with you.
By the time I had walked over all the grounds and seen everything I felt like the 4 year old who was quite clear to his Mum that it was time to go. He and Mum went to the car park and drove away. I hobbled down the lane. I decided to go the shorter way back into town and managed to do that the first try. Next was finding the bus. Since I was right in front of the public library/tourist information I was able to get directions without walking out of my way. The hitch was that x17 seems to take the middle of the day off. I say "seems" as I found the bus schedule after 13:00 impossible to read. Eventually bus 12 arrived and since it went to Leamington Spa, I got on. I should say that I got on because of a charitable bus driver. My return ticket for the x17 wouldn't work on the 12, and my pocket change was less than 1pound 90. I did have some pence over one pound, so bus driver let me ride for all my pocket change. Double bonus for me. Getting rid of all those coppers was beginning to be worrysome to me. It was a nice long ride through countryside that I hadn't seen before and it ultimately dropped me much closer to the rail station. 10 minute wait for the train and I was headed home. Once I make it to the train I can be assured that I will be offered light refreshments. So, I got a little lemonaide which seems to come carbonated here, and a small bottle of water and I allowed the train guy to talk me into a chicken and bacon sandwich which was quite good. Spoiled my appetite for dinner, but leftover rice pilaf and sauted brussels sprouts with pancetta make a good dinner nevertheless.
Plan A for tomorrow is Tewkesbury. It's another day of train to the bus and then find the abbey. I might work up the energy to go upstairs and use Tony's computer to print out a map. Luckily I already know where the bus station is in Gloucester and it is convenietly next to the train station. Train to the bus, bus to the town, and walk to the abbey.
I'm also entertainig ideas of going to the matinee of Much Ado About Nothing on Saturday. It's the Indian version. Looks pretty spectacular. Luckily there are no busses involved.
KG
Tuesday, August 07, 2012
Avon Calling
T'was not so much me and Dudley (who woed Elizabeth I) as t'was me and the bard. The buses don't run as often on Sundays and the trip to Kenilworth requires a bus, so I decided upon Stratford-Upon-Avon as it offers a ho ho bus.
It also happened to be a rainy day, so t'was just as well I was riding the tourist bus and touring indoor things rather than a castle with a 15 min walk to and from. Since it was raining, I decided to take the bus one entire circuit and then get off at one of the stops. Turns out that the stops in the town are pretty close together. There is also the matter of admission to the stops, and the one house I was going to visit did not have a single admission-you have to buy a three house ticket. I had arrived at 2 and by now it was 4 and the last bus runs at 5:30, so best to punt. I decided to do the church which was basically low price and Anne Hathaway's cottage which could be done on a single admission of 9 pounds. Both were good choices, and I ended up getting the penultimate bus and the last bus which dropped me at the rail station.
The recorded guide on the ho ho bus and the guides in Anne Hathaway's house were quite good. They specialize in etimology which I always find quite fun. It was particularly effective in the house as the scene was set for explaining the literal meaning of some words and phrases that have outlived their obvious meanings. I'll share a few with you.
Threshold. We were standing in the kitchen of Anne Hathaway's house. It has a stone floor. Back in the day that floor would have been covered with threshes which would have absorbed spills and cushioned a bit. The threshes would have been tossed out from time to time, though I cannot imagine that people who bathed once a year would have bothered much with cleaning out their kitchen floor threshes, but eventually they got around to it-perhaps when the smell of the floor overpowered their own smells. Anyway, The door would have been hung over a thresh hold, a raised part that kept the thrushes in. There are actually still thresholds in the houses we have stayed in here so that we have to be conscious to step up when going out of doors or even in the garage.
Board. It's the table top, but it can be removed as it sits on a 4 legged stand. Generally speaking it is the table to dine upon, but if company comes it can be placed on the floor-over the thrushes for the guest to sleep upon- in front of the fire in the kitchen which was probably the warmest room of the house. Hence the guest was offered room and board. Often there would be games drawn upon it-board games. In order to discourage cheating players were required to keep their hands above board. Since there was usually only one chair and benches for the rest of the family, the head of the family or important guests were offered the chair. Hence, chairman, and chairman of the board.
Bread. Bread was baked in hand shaped round loaves. It was sliced laterally as opposed to top down as we do today. The head of the house or important guest was given the "upper crust". They were "a slice above" or "a cut above". The bottom would have been quite hard, and of course it went to the servants. It was also the first plate before wooden plates or trenchers-the French word for this loaf of bread. One might hope for some soupy porriage or gravy to soften it up. I cannot imagine people had very strong and healthy teeth for chewing up tough bread.
Speaking of porriage, it would slow cook in an iron pot suspended over or near the fire. It consisted of grain and vegetables and if available, meat. Once started it was simply added to with whatever was available that day and went on day after day. If one was lucky they got what was cooked but fairly fresh. Pot luck.
Salt was a valuable commodity, and people were paid all or part of their wages in salt. Hence the word-from the Latin-salary. If you were known for good work you were "worth your salt".
Beds were quite expensive. They were the status item of their day and as such they were housed in the parlor. No one in the family slept on them. Only honored guests. The wooden bed frame was laced with rope which held the straw or feather mattress. The quality of sleep depended upon a tight rope-hence, "sleep tight".
The parents and children under about 5 or 6 slept on mattresses on the floor in one room. Girls often slept on a raised loft covered with such mattresses until they were married. Hence an unmarried girl or woman would be "left on the shelf".
So, I had so much fun with word play at Stratford-Upon-Avon that I decided to go back on Monday. I got up fairly early and what with knowing the lay of the land I paid my admission and visited the 3 houses-Shakespeare's birthplace, Shakespeare's death house, and the house of Shakespeare's daughter and successful son in law the doctor. The other son in law was a wastrell. I had already seen Anne Hathaway's cottage. Anne was Will's wife and the mother of his three children. My ancestor, Emelia Bassano was one of Shakespeare's mistresses. She wasn't mentioned in any of the tours. I did find a book about her on amazon.com. Mr. Shakespeare's Whore. Cannot wait to read it. (but I digress yet again). The house that I passed on seeing was Will's mother's house. Mary Arden's house has a lovely barnyard full of animals and seems just right for taking children. This adult had little interest in going to see farm animals on a rainy day or the day after.
I also took a boat ride on Avon and several walks by the river admiring the swans. I hoped to catch a matinee at the Royal Shakespeare Company, but not a chance on Monday. I certainly saw people who had just come out of a matinee on Sunday. I do have a schedule in case I get inspired.
So, all's well that ends well.
KG
It also happened to be a rainy day, so t'was just as well I was riding the tourist bus and touring indoor things rather than a castle with a 15 min walk to and from. Since it was raining, I decided to take the bus one entire circuit and then get off at one of the stops. Turns out that the stops in the town are pretty close together. There is also the matter of admission to the stops, and the one house I was going to visit did not have a single admission-you have to buy a three house ticket. I had arrived at 2 and by now it was 4 and the last bus runs at 5:30, so best to punt. I decided to do the church which was basically low price and Anne Hathaway's cottage which could be done on a single admission of 9 pounds. Both were good choices, and I ended up getting the penultimate bus and the last bus which dropped me at the rail station.
The recorded guide on the ho ho bus and the guides in Anne Hathaway's house were quite good. They specialize in etimology which I always find quite fun. It was particularly effective in the house as the scene was set for explaining the literal meaning of some words and phrases that have outlived their obvious meanings. I'll share a few with you.
Threshold. We were standing in the kitchen of Anne Hathaway's house. It has a stone floor. Back in the day that floor would have been covered with threshes which would have absorbed spills and cushioned a bit. The threshes would have been tossed out from time to time, though I cannot imagine that people who bathed once a year would have bothered much with cleaning out their kitchen floor threshes, but eventually they got around to it-perhaps when the smell of the floor overpowered their own smells. Anyway, The door would have been hung over a thresh hold, a raised part that kept the thrushes in. There are actually still thresholds in the houses we have stayed in here so that we have to be conscious to step up when going out of doors or even in the garage.
Board. It's the table top, but it can be removed as it sits on a 4 legged stand. Generally speaking it is the table to dine upon, but if company comes it can be placed on the floor-over the thrushes for the guest to sleep upon- in front of the fire in the kitchen which was probably the warmest room of the house. Hence the guest was offered room and board. Often there would be games drawn upon it-board games. In order to discourage cheating players were required to keep their hands above board. Since there was usually only one chair and benches for the rest of the family, the head of the family or important guests were offered the chair. Hence, chairman, and chairman of the board.
Bread. Bread was baked in hand shaped round loaves. It was sliced laterally as opposed to top down as we do today. The head of the house or important guest was given the "upper crust". They were "a slice above" or "a cut above". The bottom would have been quite hard, and of course it went to the servants. It was also the first plate before wooden plates or trenchers-the French word for this loaf of bread. One might hope for some soupy porriage or gravy to soften it up. I cannot imagine people had very strong and healthy teeth for chewing up tough bread.
Speaking of porriage, it would slow cook in an iron pot suspended over or near the fire. It consisted of grain and vegetables and if available, meat. Once started it was simply added to with whatever was available that day and went on day after day. If one was lucky they got what was cooked but fairly fresh. Pot luck.
Salt was a valuable commodity, and people were paid all or part of their wages in salt. Hence the word-from the Latin-salary. If you were known for good work you were "worth your salt".
Beds were quite expensive. They were the status item of their day and as such they were housed in the parlor. No one in the family slept on them. Only honored guests. The wooden bed frame was laced with rope which held the straw or feather mattress. The quality of sleep depended upon a tight rope-hence, "sleep tight".
The parents and children under about 5 or 6 slept on mattresses on the floor in one room. Girls often slept on a raised loft covered with such mattresses until they were married. Hence an unmarried girl or woman would be "left on the shelf".
So, I had so much fun with word play at Stratford-Upon-Avon that I decided to go back on Monday. I got up fairly early and what with knowing the lay of the land I paid my admission and visited the 3 houses-Shakespeare's birthplace, Shakespeare's death house, and the house of Shakespeare's daughter and successful son in law the doctor. The other son in law was a wastrell. I had already seen Anne Hathaway's cottage. Anne was Will's wife and the mother of his three children. My ancestor, Emelia Bassano was one of Shakespeare's mistresses. She wasn't mentioned in any of the tours. I did find a book about her on amazon.com. Mr. Shakespeare's Whore. Cannot wait to read it. (but I digress yet again). The house that I passed on seeing was Will's mother's house. Mary Arden's house has a lovely barnyard full of animals and seems just right for taking children. This adult had little interest in going to see farm animals on a rainy day or the day after.
I also took a boat ride on Avon and several walks by the river admiring the swans. I hoped to catch a matinee at the Royal Shakespeare Company, but not a chance on Monday. I certainly saw people who had just come out of a matinee on Sunday. I do have a schedule in case I get inspired.
So, all's well that ends well.
KG
Saturday, August 04, 2012
Finishing the Week
I took the day off today. I needed a day to rest and to plan. This morning I worked on plans for a week in Normandy. If you had asked me if I would consider going to Normandy before last week I would have expressed doubts. I associate Normandy with military cemeteries and war history. However, when I looked at my guide book I saw Impressionistic Art and very old cathedrals, abbeys and castles. So, since it is just south of Belgium and easy to get to, I started planninng. I made reservations for a week in a hotel in Rouen, a good base for making train trips. Details to follow-as they happen.
I've spent the afternoon editing photos, and it still looks like I'll not get the all done or posted. I will try to get some up before bedtime, but bedtime is falling fast.
I had a great day in Coventry this past week. I had seen the sketches of the altar tapestry at Basildon shortly after we arrived in Reading. Francoise said that the Coventry Cathedral was pretty fantastic, so I vowed to go. I wasn't disappointed. The photos will give you some idea.
The other thing to see in Coventry is the Transport Museum. I didn't realize that Coventry was something of a Detroit. They are quite proud of their museum. Since it is so big I decided to limit my focus, or rather, my camera's focus. I did mostly cycles and Jaguars.
I went back to Gloucester for the archives. It's not easy to read baptismal records from the early 17th century. I worked for two hours just trying to figure some things out. At lunch I got a few hints from the other researchers and went back to it with better reading skills but not much in the way of results. I would love to have lots of time there. Skill begats skill and I would like to develop more. Ancestry.com has been fun and easy. Tackling these old documents is more chalenging.
Yesterday I went to London. I had to get my ticket for the Eurostar from the offic at St Pancras in order to get my discount for rail pass. I decided to make it a day and go to the Tate for the Munch and Damien Hirst exhibits. I got a nice walk over the Millenium Bridge and spent happy time in the Tate learning quite a bit about Munch and Damien Hirst. After the museum I strolled down the waterfront towards Blackfriars bridge and stopped at a pub on the Thames. They had my wine and a lamb kofta special with cous cous and mango salsa. Just the sit down by the Thames would be worth it, but the food and wine was good. London and I have beem missing each other. Getting the underground was a sardine squeeze, but the train to Reading was waiting for me and the bus home in Reading was waiting for me.
Tomorrow looks like a castle for me. I'm thinking it will be Kenilworth Castle. I'll have to figure out the details though.
KG
I've spent the afternoon editing photos, and it still looks like I'll not get the all done or posted. I will try to get some up before bedtime, but bedtime is falling fast.
I had a great day in Coventry this past week. I had seen the sketches of the altar tapestry at Basildon shortly after we arrived in Reading. Francoise said that the Coventry Cathedral was pretty fantastic, so I vowed to go. I wasn't disappointed. The photos will give you some idea.
The other thing to see in Coventry is the Transport Museum. I didn't realize that Coventry was something of a Detroit. They are quite proud of their museum. Since it is so big I decided to limit my focus, or rather, my camera's focus. I did mostly cycles and Jaguars.
I went back to Gloucester for the archives. It's not easy to read baptismal records from the early 17th century. I worked for two hours just trying to figure some things out. At lunch I got a few hints from the other researchers and went back to it with better reading skills but not much in the way of results. I would love to have lots of time there. Skill begats skill and I would like to develop more. Ancestry.com has been fun and easy. Tackling these old documents is more chalenging.
Yesterday I went to London. I had to get my ticket for the Eurostar from the offic at St Pancras in order to get my discount for rail pass. I decided to make it a day and go to the Tate for the Munch and Damien Hirst exhibits. I got a nice walk over the Millenium Bridge and spent happy time in the Tate learning quite a bit about Munch and Damien Hirst. After the museum I strolled down the waterfront towards Blackfriars bridge and stopped at a pub on the Thames. They had my wine and a lamb kofta special with cous cous and mango salsa. Just the sit down by the Thames would be worth it, but the food and wine was good. London and I have beem missing each other. Getting the underground was a sardine squeeze, but the train to Reading was waiting for me and the bus home in Reading was waiting for me.
Tomorrow looks like a castle for me. I'm thinking it will be Kenilworth Castle. I'll have to figure out the details though.
KG
Wednesday, August 01, 2012
Cheltenham/Gloucester
Of the two, I prefer Gloucester. I went to Cheltenham mostly to see the Art Museum that Lonely Planet said was worth doing. It is two hours to Cheltenham, but I never mind riding the train. The train station is about a 30 min walk from town, so it seemed prudent to catch the bus. Town is not hard to navigate even for me, so I found the museum and it was under construction. The desk clerk in the library next door was very helpful, but the museum was closed. So, I decided to enjoy a stroll around the downtown admiring the Georgian buildings. Cheltenham is something like Bath only the salt springs were discovered long after the Romans left. Still it flourished because of the baths during Georgian times and the architecture shows it. Only today you have to keep looking up as the lower floors are all commercial. Cheltenham is a shopping town. Soon boring. Also lunch time so I walked around till I found a suitable tapas restaurant which is a tapas chain-the same one Carol and I ate at in Newcastle. Nevertheless, a fritatta with salad and tomato bread and a small glass of wine is a lovely lunch. Thanks to Marcia, I had a tiny bottle of traveling Tobasco which fixed the fritatta and its so called sauce right up. The other benefit of a Tapas restaurant is a bathroom and plenty of time to sit and rest.
There is one other sight in Cheltenham that Lonely Planet says is worth seeing, so I headed to the Holst Birthplace Museum. You may remember Gustav Holst as the composer of The Planets. He was born in Cheltenham and lived there the first 7 years of his life, but his family home has made a lovely tourist stop. You'll see the photos. Very nice piano and otherwise interesting look at how families lived around the turn of the 20th century.
On the way to the Holst Museum I had seen the bus stop for the bus that takes me back to the RR station. Because of my pitiful since of direction and the fact that vehicles drive on the left, it was impossible for me to figure out whether this bus stop was the right one or getting to the train station. I also couldn't deduce anything from the bus schedule as it didn't include the street I was on. When the bus approached I flagged it down. The bus driver was a bit flustered and said that he didn't pick up passengers at this stop but in explaining to me the whys and wheres he just said to get on. He then conntinued to advise and educate me on where to catch this particular bus and I said I would never do it again. He did make sure I got off at the train station and directed me to cross the street in front of the bus. I did make it safely to the train.
I decided that if the next train stopped at Gloucester I would try to make it to the Folk Museum that was closed on Sunday. The next train was to Cardiff, but the one after that stopped next at Gloucester, so I was off. I took a taxi to the museum because it was already 4pm and I wasn't sure when the museum closed. I had just enough time to see the museum. It really wasn't much, but I got some photos of things of interest to me including the building itself-Tutor. On the way out I decided to peruse the selection of books for something about the 17th century when my Hagood ancestors last lived here. I came upon a little book about the civil war and happened to open to a paragraph about tobacco growing in Gloucester. Since my family immigrated to Virginia and ultimately to Gadsden County Florida to grow tobacco, I was thrilled. The book cost a total of one pound. So, I have been happily reading about the Roudheads and the Royalists duking it out in Gloucester, and putting together the pieces of the puzzle that most likely inspired the Hagoods/Hawkwoods/Hagwoods to hop on a boat and high tail it to the colonies. There is a lovely map of Gloucester 1610-10 years before the birth of my immigrating ancestor. Some of the buildings are still there and can be seen in the photo blog. I also have my tourist map of Gloucester so I can compare and get a sense of where things were happening during the civil war. I will probably make another trip to Gloucester and perhaps Tewkesbury to see what else I can find. There is another museum in Glocester and I'm sure there is a library. The one in Cheltenham had a family history collection, so knock wood-Hagwood perhaps.
Today I am taking it easy. Once I have completed some tasks I may catch a train somewhere closer to here and have a little adventure. Mark and his friend are off to see women's beach volleyball at the olympics today. I'm not sure why, but Mark is in costume-he's a pirate complete with spyglass. Look for him if you happen to see the beach volleyball. He's the one with the inflatable parrot on his shoulder.
KG
There is one other sight in Cheltenham that Lonely Planet says is worth seeing, so I headed to the Holst Birthplace Museum. You may remember Gustav Holst as the composer of The Planets. He was born in Cheltenham and lived there the first 7 years of his life, but his family home has made a lovely tourist stop. You'll see the photos. Very nice piano and otherwise interesting look at how families lived around the turn of the 20th century.
On the way to the Holst Museum I had seen the bus stop for the bus that takes me back to the RR station. Because of my pitiful since of direction and the fact that vehicles drive on the left, it was impossible for me to figure out whether this bus stop was the right one or getting to the train station. I also couldn't deduce anything from the bus schedule as it didn't include the street I was on. When the bus approached I flagged it down. The bus driver was a bit flustered and said that he didn't pick up passengers at this stop but in explaining to me the whys and wheres he just said to get on. He then conntinued to advise and educate me on where to catch this particular bus and I said I would never do it again. He did make sure I got off at the train station and directed me to cross the street in front of the bus. I did make it safely to the train.
I decided that if the next train stopped at Gloucester I would try to make it to the Folk Museum that was closed on Sunday. The next train was to Cardiff, but the one after that stopped next at Gloucester, so I was off. I took a taxi to the museum because it was already 4pm and I wasn't sure when the museum closed. I had just enough time to see the museum. It really wasn't much, but I got some photos of things of interest to me including the building itself-Tutor. On the way out I decided to peruse the selection of books for something about the 17th century when my Hagood ancestors last lived here. I came upon a little book about the civil war and happened to open to a paragraph about tobacco growing in Gloucester. Since my family immigrated to Virginia and ultimately to Gadsden County Florida to grow tobacco, I was thrilled. The book cost a total of one pound. So, I have been happily reading about the Roudheads and the Royalists duking it out in Gloucester, and putting together the pieces of the puzzle that most likely inspired the Hagoods/Hawkwoods/Hagwoods to hop on a boat and high tail it to the colonies. There is a lovely map of Gloucester 1610-10 years before the birth of my immigrating ancestor. Some of the buildings are still there and can be seen in the photo blog. I also have my tourist map of Gloucester so I can compare and get a sense of where things were happening during the civil war. I will probably make another trip to Gloucester and perhaps Tewkesbury to see what else I can find. There is another museum in Glocester and I'm sure there is a library. The one in Cheltenham had a family history collection, so knock wood-Hagwood perhaps.
Today I am taking it easy. Once I have completed some tasks I may catch a train somewhere closer to here and have a little adventure. Mark and his friend are off to see women's beach volleyball at the olympics today. I'm not sure why, but Mark is in costume-he's a pirate complete with spyglass. Look for him if you happen to see the beach volleyball. He's the one with the inflatable parrot on his shoulder.
KG
Monday, July 30, 2012
Gloucester
Yesterday was Gloucester-mostly for the cathedral, but the town held some interest as well. It takes about 1.5 hrs to get there via train, and there are some direct trains. I caught one of those in the morning. There was a lovely tourist map for one pound in the train station, so I soon set off for town. The clouds were big and black, so I found my Marmot.
The cathedral is not hard to find. A restaurant other than fast food was not readily apparent, and I didn't want much for lunch, so the cathedral cafe provided a nice egg salad sandwich and juice. Then I was on with my tour. No luck finding any ancestors, but lots of other interesting things. Gloucester was put on the map when King Edward II was murdered and buried in the cathedral. The cathedral became a shrine for pilgrims and the funds generated by these pilgrims financed the building of this magnificent structure.
Also interred here is is the founder of the original Saxon Abbey and a Knight Prince or two here and there. Like many modern European cathedrals, there are plenty of contemporary art pieces scattered around. I particularly liked a small stained glass window that you will see in the photo blog.
My next stop was to be the Folk Museum as the ancestors last lived here in the 16th century, and it would have been nice to see how they lived. However, going to a town on Sunday or Monday pretty much assures that there will be no museum visits. So, I wandered around town and caught a few more of the city sites. The Blackfriars, the harbour, the Greyfriars and St Mary's Cemetery where I was delighted with a whimsical bench of Green Men and their sidekicks. I managed to hobble back to the rail station and watch the police at work cuffing a young suspect. I had to change trains in Swindon, but got home via the Indian Restaurant in Reading and had a lovely Lamb Madrass dinner.
I was sorry to miss the syncronized diving on tv, but caught up on some of the olympics before going to bed.
Today has been a rest day for me. The legs are almost back. I had a little outing to Sainsbury's for provisions, and Mark has called to say that he is bringing home fish and chips for dinner. Stay tuned for photos and more adventures tomorrow. I'm looking at Cheltenham.
KG
The cathedral is not hard to find. A restaurant other than fast food was not readily apparent, and I didn't want much for lunch, so the cathedral cafe provided a nice egg salad sandwich and juice. Then I was on with my tour. No luck finding any ancestors, but lots of other interesting things. Gloucester was put on the map when King Edward II was murdered and buried in the cathedral. The cathedral became a shrine for pilgrims and the funds generated by these pilgrims financed the building of this magnificent structure.
Also interred here is is the founder of the original Saxon Abbey and a Knight Prince or two here and there. Like many modern European cathedrals, there are plenty of contemporary art pieces scattered around. I particularly liked a small stained glass window that you will see in the photo blog.
My next stop was to be the Folk Museum as the ancestors last lived here in the 16th century, and it would have been nice to see how they lived. However, going to a town on Sunday or Monday pretty much assures that there will be no museum visits. So, I wandered around town and caught a few more of the city sites. The Blackfriars, the harbour, the Greyfriars and St Mary's Cemetery where I was delighted with a whimsical bench of Green Men and their sidekicks. I managed to hobble back to the rail station and watch the police at work cuffing a young suspect. I had to change trains in Swindon, but got home via the Indian Restaurant in Reading and had a lovely Lamb Madrass dinner.
I was sorry to miss the syncronized diving on tv, but caught up on some of the olympics before going to bed.
Today has been a rest day for me. The legs are almost back. I had a little outing to Sainsbury's for provisions, and Mark has called to say that he is bringing home fish and chips for dinner. Stay tuned for photos and more adventures tomorrow. I'm looking at Cheltenham.
KG
Saturday, July 28, 2012
Windsor-the Castle
I missed the Chapel of St George last visit, so my goal was a short day trip to see it. I am always amazed at how well the bus and train and Costa's Coffee work. The train I wanted was at 10:26. The bus pulled into the station at about 10:20 and I was on the train with my mocha with a few minutes to spare. There were quite a few people getting on the train and only 3 carriages, so I took the seat just in front of me rather than try to find 1st class. I sat next to a young woman all dressed in Olympic clothes.
All was well until we had been going for some time and was pretty sure we had passed my stop at Slough. I didn't miss my stop. The train didn't stop. We pulled into Paddington and I was able to find the train that would return to Slough as well as a conductor who told me that there had been a last minute change. Oh well. Slow train to Slough. Then on the train to Windsor.
St George's chapel was not that spectacular. The Queen doesn't even worship there-she has a private chapel in the residence. There were some nice tombs including George and Elizabeth, the Queen's parents. Of course, Prince Albert, Victoria's royal consort, has a whole mini-chapel to himself.
I managed a little Persian lunch in town before touring the State Apartments. I most enjoyed the art this visit. I was particularly interested in a painting by Jacopo Bassino as there are Bassino's in my tree. Turns out Jacopo probably isn't. Oh well. Kept my interest.
The 60 photos of ERII and family were good. There were a couple of the dorgi's as well.
Slow trains home, but they stopped where I wanted. Marcia had a fabulous dinner for her last night before leaving for home. I'll miss her.
KG
All was well until we had been going for some time and was pretty sure we had passed my stop at Slough. I didn't miss my stop. The train didn't stop. We pulled into Paddington and I was able to find the train that would return to Slough as well as a conductor who told me that there had been a last minute change. Oh well. Slow train to Slough. Then on the train to Windsor.
St George's chapel was not that spectacular. The Queen doesn't even worship there-she has a private chapel in the residence. There were some nice tombs including George and Elizabeth, the Queen's parents. Of course, Prince Albert, Victoria's royal consort, has a whole mini-chapel to himself.
I managed a little Persian lunch in town before touring the State Apartments. I most enjoyed the art this visit. I was particularly interested in a painting by Jacopo Bassino as there are Bassino's in my tree. Turns out Jacopo probably isn't. Oh well. Kept my interest.
The 60 photos of ERII and family were good. There were a couple of the dorgi's as well.
Slow trains home, but they stopped where I wanted. Marcia had a fabulous dinner for her last night before leaving for home. I'll miss her.
KG
Thursday, July 26, 2012
What I Know Today
We scrapped plans to go to London today as Marcia's back is acting up. She's feeling the need to rest because a full day of travel is ahead of her on Saturday.
So I enterntaied myself with shopping and bus trips to places around Reading today. This morning I went on the bus to Sainsbury's. I learned that there is a closer bus stop for going out, but it is really all relative as I enjoy the bus for the most part-even the waits. Still, nice to know the workings.
So, I did the shopping. I have been eyeing the edamame salad for weeks, but decided to give it a try today. I also turned down the chutneys last trip, but decided to give them a closer look today. I had a lovely cheddar with beetroot chutney on the train and decided it was well worth replicating so I got a jar of Baxters Beetroot, Apple & Horseradish Chutney. I have written down the ingredients in hopes of replicating/improving it when we get home. It sparks cheddar and even worked with Marcia's chicken salad for dinner tonight.
So, I gathered a few pre prepared foods in the morning and in the afternoon I made a second bus trip-this time to Reading for Lakeland. Lakeland is a kitchen shop. Like addicts to the crack house for us. We went there to pick up Easyyo yogurt packets a couple of days ago and were enchated and picked up a couple of catalogues. Of course we have been lusting after the stuff ever since, so I was off to purchase the absolute essentials before Marcia heads back to the US on Saturday. Nothing in the way of foodstuff, but a good supply of hardware. Some of you are sure to benefit from this trip.
Marcia is all prepared to head home and is stocked with food for tomomrow. I'm thinking I will make the short trip to Windsor for a look at St George's Chapel which we missed on our last visit. I am planning my trips around the Olympics, which is to say avoiding London. We barely missed the first games in Cardiff yesterday. Who knew the futbol would start early???
When the Olympics are over I will take the Eurostar to Brussels and have a week there seeing the things I missed last year. Same great hotel. I'm hoping the gay Thai restaurant is still there as well. Also hoping Suzanne of Alkmar will be able to meet me in Rotterdam so I can catch up on her exchange in Hong Kong.
I have gotten an ancestor.com message from another cousin-the Hagood side. These things always inspire me. A quick check of my tree shows that these Hagood/Hogwood's came from Glostershire. As it is only a day trip from Reading and was on my list anyway, I'll be inspired to hunt for our ancestors there. Word is that our Bassano ancestor was Shakespeare's "dark lady", so a trip to Warwick and Stratford on Avon seems in order as well. I'm also feeling a call from York, but we will see if I get there. It is an overnight. Lovely great Minster though.
Stay tuned.
KG
So I enterntaied myself with shopping and bus trips to places around Reading today. This morning I went on the bus to Sainsbury's. I learned that there is a closer bus stop for going out, but it is really all relative as I enjoy the bus for the most part-even the waits. Still, nice to know the workings.
So, I did the shopping. I have been eyeing the edamame salad for weeks, but decided to give it a try today. I also turned down the chutneys last trip, but decided to give them a closer look today. I had a lovely cheddar with beetroot chutney on the train and decided it was well worth replicating so I got a jar of Baxters Beetroot, Apple & Horseradish Chutney. I have written down the ingredients in hopes of replicating/improving it when we get home. It sparks cheddar and even worked with Marcia's chicken salad for dinner tonight.
So, I gathered a few pre prepared foods in the morning and in the afternoon I made a second bus trip-this time to Reading for Lakeland. Lakeland is a kitchen shop. Like addicts to the crack house for us. We went there to pick up Easyyo yogurt packets a couple of days ago and were enchated and picked up a couple of catalogues. Of course we have been lusting after the stuff ever since, so I was off to purchase the absolute essentials before Marcia heads back to the US on Saturday. Nothing in the way of foodstuff, but a good supply of hardware. Some of you are sure to benefit from this trip.
Marcia is all prepared to head home and is stocked with food for tomomrow. I'm thinking I will make the short trip to Windsor for a look at St George's Chapel which we missed on our last visit. I am planning my trips around the Olympics, which is to say avoiding London. We barely missed the first games in Cardiff yesterday. Who knew the futbol would start early???
When the Olympics are over I will take the Eurostar to Brussels and have a week there seeing the things I missed last year. Same great hotel. I'm hoping the gay Thai restaurant is still there as well. Also hoping Suzanne of Alkmar will be able to meet me in Rotterdam so I can catch up on her exchange in Hong Kong.
I have gotten an ancestor.com message from another cousin-the Hagood side. These things always inspire me. A quick check of my tree shows that these Hagood/Hogwood's came from Glostershire. As it is only a day trip from Reading and was on my list anyway, I'll be inspired to hunt for our ancestors there. Word is that our Bassano ancestor was Shakespeare's "dark lady", so a trip to Warwick and Stratford on Avon seems in order as well. I'm also feeling a call from York, but we will see if I get there. It is an overnight. Lovely great Minster though.
Stay tuned.
KG
Wednesday, July 25, 2012
Off to Wales
The weather has finally provided us some sunny days with temps in the 70s and 80s. Summer has finally arrived! We left for Cardiff, Wales for a day trip to see Cardiff Castle and to visit the Cardiff museum. The Reading train station would provide our access and the beautiful morning only added to the radiance of the fields, hills and streams along the way. The trip took about 1 1/2 hours and we walked out of the Cardiff station to find the tourist (aka "the Ho-Ho) bus.
It is not high tourist season in Cardiff and our ease in finding the Ho-Ho was not easy or clear as things are a bit scaled back. Kay took off to find the nearest station while I sat and found a route map of the Cardiff Ho-Ho on my phone. Kay turned with brochures and hard copy route maps and we set off for the local stop. Only we could not find it; it was not marked on the street or well identified on the brochure. Our discussions eventually led us to start walking towards the castle when the bus appeared at the bus stop station we had just passed. We were off to the castle finally.
Cardiff Castle is one of the oldest in Britain and one of Wales' heritage sites. It is the heart of the capital surrounded by thick walls and towers that hide it's 2,000 year history. A Roman then Norman fort provided easy access to the port and trade. A key position for control of the land and sea, it was a focus of occupational wars and excavations have found evidence of several forts within the old Roman wall that is still visible today.
The Norman conquest added the high, round keep and moat within the old walls. (that's Kay at the top of the stairs) The first keep was probably built of wood. More medieval fortifications and dwellings followed inside the now empty area. Major buildings were added as the Castle passed through the hands of many noble families until in 1766, it passed by marriage to the Bute family. The 2nd Marquess of Bute was responsible for turning Cardiff into the world’s greatest coal exporting port. The Castle and Bute fortune passed to his son John, the 3rd Marquess of Bute, who by the 1860s was reputed to be the richest man in the world and Cardiff became one of the richest cities.
Mining shipping are still components of the Cardiff economy and also has added tech companies and movie studios to their global efforts. Welsh is being taught in schools now and the Welsh claim to be a bi-lingual country, although you will hear many world languages just like in Reading and London.
We also saw soccer teams from several Olympic teams around town. They are here to play in soccer events at the Cardiff stadium. There were two teams wandering about the museum when we were there and they just didn't get the concept about "no flash" and "do not touch" causing the museum staff to chase them everywhere. Speaking of the museum, it was a fine combo of art and the natural history of Wales. I spent most of my time in the Natural history section learning about the ancient rock formations Wales is famous for. Kay took off upstairs for the art displays. We both eventually met in the lobby, tired, but happy.
The ride back to the train station via the Ho-Ho led us through town and out to the shipping docks and industrial areas where many of the movie studios are located. Tours are offered for several interesting places but we were tired and achey and just wanted the train home.
We arrived at the station not a minute too late. It was waiting for us and we got on and it pulled out for Redding. We finally found our seats, then a pint of beer and some salty chips from the service cart attendant. A perfect end to a fine day trip. Cheers!
mt
It is not high tourist season in Cardiff and our ease in finding the Ho-Ho was not easy or clear as things are a bit scaled back. Kay took off to find the nearest station while I sat and found a route map of the Cardiff Ho-Ho on my phone. Kay turned with brochures and hard copy route maps and we set off for the local stop. Only we could not find it; it was not marked on the street or well identified on the brochure. Our discussions eventually led us to start walking towards the castle when the bus appeared at the bus stop station we had just passed. We were off to the castle finally.
Cardiff Castle is one of the oldest in Britain and one of Wales' heritage sites. It is the heart of the capital surrounded by thick walls and towers that hide it's 2,000 year history. A Roman then Norman fort provided easy access to the port and trade. A key position for control of the land and sea, it was a focus of occupational wars and excavations have found evidence of several forts within the old Roman wall that is still visible today.
The Norman conquest added the high, round keep and moat within the old walls. (that's Kay at the top of the stairs) The first keep was probably built of wood. More medieval fortifications and dwellings followed inside the now empty area. Major buildings were added as the Castle passed through the hands of many noble families until in 1766, it passed by marriage to the Bute family. The 2nd Marquess of Bute was responsible for turning Cardiff into the world’s greatest coal exporting port. The Castle and Bute fortune passed to his son John, the 3rd Marquess of Bute, who by the 1860s was reputed to be the richest man in the world and Cardiff became one of the richest cities.
Mining shipping are still components of the Cardiff economy and also has added tech companies and movie studios to their global efforts. Welsh is being taught in schools now and the Welsh claim to be a bi-lingual country, although you will hear many world languages just like in Reading and London.
We also saw soccer teams from several Olympic teams around town. They are here to play in soccer events at the Cardiff stadium. There were two teams wandering about the museum when we were there and they just didn't get the concept about "no flash" and "do not touch" causing the museum staff to chase them everywhere. Speaking of the museum, it was a fine combo of art and the natural history of Wales. I spent most of my time in the Natural history section learning about the ancient rock formations Wales is famous for. Kay took off upstairs for the art displays. We both eventually met in the lobby, tired, but happy.
The ride back to the train station via the Ho-Ho led us through town and out to the shipping docks and industrial areas where many of the movie studios are located. Tours are offered for several interesting places but we were tired and achey and just wanted the train home.
We arrived at the station not a minute too late. It was waiting for us and we got on and it pulled out for Redding. We finally found our seats, then a pint of beer and some salty chips from the service cart attendant. A perfect end to a fine day trip. Cheers!
mt
Monday, July 23, 2012
Reading Day
Since Saturday was a travel day all day pretty much, I planned Sunday as a day of rest and editing and posting. However, about mid afternoon I was hungry for food and adventure, so I suggested to Marcia that we take the bus to Reading for late lunch at Sweeny and Todd's pie shop. We had both spotted it from the bus so it wouldn't be hard to find-probably near the St Mary's Butts Church. As we were walking out the door, Mark appeared having just gotten up from sleep after his Saturday night of policing of Reading pubs. He was enthusiastic about the idea of a pie for his breakfast and offered to drive if we would wait 5 min. No brainer for us.
So, we got not only lunch but a tour of Reading. Sweeny and Todds is a bit of a Reading institution. It opened in the 1960's and was known as a place where you could get many different things besides pies. It is right next to the police station, so these days plenty of police go there and it seems more like a proper pub. Since it was Sunday afternoon it was almost empty which seemed a plus to us. Apparently it gets quite loud at night.
Before the pub we got a short tour of what used to be the local Almshouse. They are still owned by the council which is in charge of social services, but more can be made from them as rentals with the money going to social services. Also, social policy has changed since the time of the almshouses.
Next was lunch. We ordered pies and sides. Mark and Marcia had the cider and I had an ale. There was an amazing choice of pies. Mark's favorite is steak, Marcia got the rump roast and Stilton and I got the lamb and beef with veggies and a rich gravy. They weren't kidding about the gravy. My side was cole slaw. Since there are millions of ways to fix cole slaw I was curious. Out came a cereal bowl filled with very creamy cole slaw-chopped cabbage with occasional big chunks liberally coated with a mixture of mayonnaise and probably cream or sour cream. I would say swimming, but it was way too thick to swim.
So, we tucked into our meals and enjoyed them thoroughly. I couldn't finish mine, so the waitperson asked if I would like to take it home. Now, this is commonplace in the states, but Mark said that it is the first time he has ever heard of it in Europe. I generally do not ask to take my leftovers home when we are here, but when asked and when the food is good I cannot resist. So, I got to have it again for lunch today. I'll be going back to Sweeny and Todds. They have pies for take away.
The downside of a huge serving of meat pie with thick rich gravy and thick rich cole slaw and an ale is digestion. By early evening I couldn't keep my eyes open. However, there was no need for a proper dinner.
We got a post lunch tour of Reading as well with another almshouse tucked away down a narrow street. I loved the chimneys on this house. See the photoblog.
KG
So, we got not only lunch but a tour of Reading. Sweeny and Todds is a bit of a Reading institution. It opened in the 1960's and was known as a place where you could get many different things besides pies. It is right next to the police station, so these days plenty of police go there and it seems more like a proper pub. Since it was Sunday afternoon it was almost empty which seemed a plus to us. Apparently it gets quite loud at night.
Before the pub we got a short tour of what used to be the local Almshouse. They are still owned by the council which is in charge of social services, but more can be made from them as rentals with the money going to social services. Also, social policy has changed since the time of the almshouses.
Next was lunch. We ordered pies and sides. Mark and Marcia had the cider and I had an ale. There was an amazing choice of pies. Mark's favorite is steak, Marcia got the rump roast and Stilton and I got the lamb and beef with veggies and a rich gravy. They weren't kidding about the gravy. My side was cole slaw. Since there are millions of ways to fix cole slaw I was curious. Out came a cereal bowl filled with very creamy cole slaw-chopped cabbage with occasional big chunks liberally coated with a mixture of mayonnaise and probably cream or sour cream. I would say swimming, but it was way too thick to swim.
So, we tucked into our meals and enjoyed them thoroughly. I couldn't finish mine, so the waitperson asked if I would like to take it home. Now, this is commonplace in the states, but Mark said that it is the first time he has ever heard of it in Europe. I generally do not ask to take my leftovers home when we are here, but when asked and when the food is good I cannot resist. So, I got to have it again for lunch today. I'll be going back to Sweeny and Todds. They have pies for take away.
The downside of a huge serving of meat pie with thick rich gravy and thick rich cole slaw and an ale is digestion. By early evening I couldn't keep my eyes open. However, there was no need for a proper dinner.
We got a post lunch tour of Reading as well with another almshouse tucked away down a narrow street. I loved the chimneys on this house. See the photoblog.
KG
Saturday, July 21, 2012
Newcastle-Baltic Contemporary Art
http://www.balticmill.com/whats-on
We couldn't photograph in the museum, but the web site is pretty good. Mark Wallinger is a name to look for. His rocks on checkerboard and film of men putting scafolding up and down and both his Mark on bricks around London slideshow and the big "I" on the outside of the museum are compelling works.
Janet Cardiff's speakers arranged in choirs of 5, eight of them surrounding two benches was amazing. I believe that 14 minutes of this piece per day could probably cure anything.
We loved the "Flow" exhibit as well. It also gave great perspective of the Milli bridge opening.
KG
We couldn't photograph in the museum, but the web site is pretty good. Mark Wallinger is a name to look for. His rocks on checkerboard and film of men putting scafolding up and down and both his Mark on bricks around London slideshow and the big "I" on the outside of the museum are compelling works.
Janet Cardiff's speakers arranged in choirs of 5, eight of them surrounding two benches was amazing. I believe that 14 minutes of this piece per day could probably cure anything.
We loved the "Flow" exhibit as well. It also gave great perspective of the Milli bridge opening.
KG
Back on the Train
It's been days since I posted which tells you I have been having a good time. Newcastle was fabulous and we finally got decent weather. Yesterday and this morning summer arrived. Waa-hoo!!!
Brief synopsis is that Carol and I went to 3 sites on Hadrian's Wall (and you will see the photos). We met several old ladies (that means older than me) and had lovely chats and good directions. We walked through little villages from the past and present and saw sheep and a bunny along with several very well behaved dogs. We ate fantastic meals of hippie, Indian, Thai, and Spanish food and we slept well mostly. Our room at the Jury's Inn Quayside was fatastic-particularly the views, and the walks along the Quay (Kay) were quite lovely In addition to Roman ruins we toured the castle that gave Newcastle it's name. All is relative-the castle was built in the 13th century and was new at the time.
The fact that our knees and ankles are now screaming does not in any way detract from the lovely things we saw and the lovely time we had. Carol made her way back to London early this morning while I got more sleep. Last text indicated she had had a veggie rissoto lunch and was touring Kew Gardens. She will fly back toorrow morning, so will have plenty of time to rest her feet.
Meanwhile, back on the train I am editing the photos. Trying to upload them on the train is not going so well, so will have to wait till I get back to Reading. I'm loving the bridge photos.
KG
Brief synopsis is that Carol and I went to 3 sites on Hadrian's Wall (and you will see the photos). We met several old ladies (that means older than me) and had lovely chats and good directions. We walked through little villages from the past and present and saw sheep and a bunny along with several very well behaved dogs. We ate fantastic meals of hippie, Indian, Thai, and Spanish food and we slept well mostly. Our room at the Jury's Inn Quayside was fatastic-particularly the views, and the walks along the Quay (Kay) were quite lovely In addition to Roman ruins we toured the castle that gave Newcastle it's name. All is relative-the castle was built in the 13th century and was new at the time.
The fact that our knees and ankles are now screaming does not in any way detract from the lovely things we saw and the lovely time we had. Carol made her way back to London early this morning while I got more sleep. Last text indicated she had had a veggie rissoto lunch and was touring Kew Gardens. She will fly back toorrow morning, so will have plenty of time to rest her feet.
Meanwhile, back on the train I am editing the photos. Trying to upload them on the train is not going so well, so will have to wait till I get back to Reading. I'm loving the bridge photos.
KG
Wednesday, July 18, 2012
Reading to Newcastle
I'm on the train and there is free WiFi in first class. It's WiFi here-not Wee-Fee.
So, Im trying to get some photos edited and posted to catch up. It's making me a bit queasy, but I'm determined.
Lunch was a cheddar cheese and beetroot chutney sandwich on whole grain bread with cucumbers and bits of lettuce and, of course, butter. I ordered tea. It has come hot and with milk. Hot was expected, but not so much the milk. I suppose tea has it's standard depending on where you are. At Bubba's BBQ you expect tea to be be iced and sweet enough to rattle your fillings. Here it's hot with milk.
The countryside is flooded. All the low lying areas. The sky changes from bright sunny blue to grey in a nanosecond it seems. It was raining in Reading when I left, but thus far no rain from Oxford to Birmingham. Rain on the way to Manchester.
The look has changed from cosmopolitan to countryside to industrial.
Back to photo editing and posting.
KG
So, Im trying to get some photos edited and posted to catch up. It's making me a bit queasy, but I'm determined.
Lunch was a cheddar cheese and beetroot chutney sandwich on whole grain bread with cucumbers and bits of lettuce and, of course, butter. I ordered tea. It has come hot and with milk. Hot was expected, but not so much the milk. I suppose tea has it's standard depending on where you are. At Bubba's BBQ you expect tea to be be iced and sweet enough to rattle your fillings. Here it's hot with milk.
The countryside is flooded. All the low lying areas. The sky changes from bright sunny blue to grey in a nanosecond it seems. It was raining in Reading when I left, but thus far no rain from Oxford to Birmingham. Rain on the way to Manchester.
The look has changed from cosmopolitan to countryside to industrial.
Back to photo editing and posting.
KG
Tuesday, July 17, 2012
Reading Days
Still in Reading but not for long. Marcia will stay whilst I take off for Newcastle to join Carol tomorrow. I've found a direct train and went down to the station to make my reservation this morning.
I was reading up on the logistics of visiting Hadrian's Wall. If it were American there would be large billboards even in Plymouth and once we got there we would find 30 competing tours including two flyovers, and several glider rides-perhaps a zip line or two over and down the wall. There would surely be Roman soldier hats and breastplates and swords. As it is, this is Britain and there is the regular bus AD122 that goes between Newcastle and Carslile for everybody, tourist and residents alike. I'll tell you more after we have done it. Carol has already picked up the schedule.
Perhaps I'll get a couple of photos edited this afternoon. I do feel that I am getting a bit behind in my editing and posting. Also, in two hours we take off for Helene's house where we will have tea with Helene and her son, Alexander aka, Weastie and Gaga. We will ask him what he wishes to be called. He's 2 now and he surely knows.
Mark has a talent for going out the door about the same time as other people in the house are going out, and he is generally going in the direction we want to go, ergo, free ride door to door. For everything else there is bus pass. I actually love to ride the bus. By the time I get there after shopping or activity I am usually ready for a long sit, and the bus provides entertainment whilst I sit. Can't beat that.
Marcia plans to be busy while I'm away. Mark had the day off yesterday and went fishing with his friend. He came home with a nice pile of trout for dinner tonight, and from his friend there was a package of venison and a partridge for Marcia to fix up. On the 27th (after I come back and the day before she flies back to the US) there will be a fly fishing trip with Mark's friends the retired nuclear physicist. In the meantime, Ice Age IV is at the Oracle Theater.
You will be glad to know that we woke up to sunshine this morning. Carol reports that she has been in short sleeves. I put a load of washing in as soon as I see the sun. Apparently Caroll found the laudrette though it took two busses. Still, no hanging laundry for her.
I'll get to those photos now.
KG
I was reading up on the logistics of visiting Hadrian's Wall. If it were American there would be large billboards even in Plymouth and once we got there we would find 30 competing tours including two flyovers, and several glider rides-perhaps a zip line or two over and down the wall. There would surely be Roman soldier hats and breastplates and swords. As it is, this is Britain and there is the regular bus AD122 that goes between Newcastle and Carslile for everybody, tourist and residents alike. I'll tell you more after we have done it. Carol has already picked up the schedule.
Perhaps I'll get a couple of photos edited this afternoon. I do feel that I am getting a bit behind in my editing and posting. Also, in two hours we take off for Helene's house where we will have tea with Helene and her son, Alexander aka, Weastie and Gaga. We will ask him what he wishes to be called. He's 2 now and he surely knows.
Mark has a talent for going out the door about the same time as other people in the house are going out, and he is generally going in the direction we want to go, ergo, free ride door to door. For everything else there is bus pass. I actually love to ride the bus. By the time I get there after shopping or activity I am usually ready for a long sit, and the bus provides entertainment whilst I sit. Can't beat that.
Marcia plans to be busy while I'm away. Mark had the day off yesterday and went fishing with his friend. He came home with a nice pile of trout for dinner tonight, and from his friend there was a package of venison and a partridge for Marcia to fix up. On the 27th (after I come back and the day before she flies back to the US) there will be a fly fishing trip with Mark's friends the retired nuclear physicist. In the meantime, Ice Age IV is at the Oracle Theater.
You will be glad to know that we woke up to sunshine this morning. Carol reports that she has been in short sleeves. I put a load of washing in as soon as I see the sun. Apparently Caroll found the laudrette though it took two busses. Still, no hanging laundry for her.
I'll get to those photos now.
KG
Friday, July 13, 2012
Back in Reading
It seems like a homecoming. We are always delighted to see Tony and Francoise and Mark and their home has been home to us for several trips now. We have been treated to transport from the train station involving two cars, and then made a fantastic French dinner which comes course after course simple fresh delicious food like watercress soup, cous cous salad with cucumers and mint, ratatouille with rice and fried egg, assorted cheeses including a creamy camembert and a goat bucheron, yogurt with berry puree and plenty of wine both white and red. Tres yummay!!!
Today we will have an adventure with Francoise to Basildon Park to see the house and gardens. Pat and Carol were taken to the train this morning by Tony who is the early riser. They will spend the day at Oxford, and by the looks of it they will have a nice day-we all will. It is now 21C and there is some blue sky with sun. At last!!!
Tony and Francoise will leave early tomorrow morning for France. Pat leaves Sunday morning for the US. Carol leaves Monday for Newcastle upon Tyne for her conference. I leave Wednesday to join Carol for a few days to explore Newcastle. I come back to Reading on Saturday and Carol goes to Heathrow to prepare to fly out early Sunday morning. The following Saturday Marcia goes back to the US. Tony has given me the invite to stay until time for me to leave, so it only remains for me to plan some adventures. As is uaually the case, I'm looking to pack some of my things off with Marcia and lighten my load for the rest of the journey.
We will have use of Tony's car starting tomorrow, so getting around will be quite easy. I'll probably get a bus pass either tomorrow or Monday. The Calcot bus has changed from pink purple to yellow and there are new hybrid busses!! Perhaps Sunday we will take the day off and get some photos edited and on the blog.
In house with us will be Mark. You may remember that Mark is a policeman. In house police protection and tech support for both computers and the running of the house plus good company and excellet guide to local pubs-such a good deal. We are promised a trip to Sweeney Todd's Pie House soon. He has also set up a fly fishing trip for Marcia with a nuclear physicist fly fisherman. What could be better (for Marcia)???
So, much good company and food and many adventures ahead.
KG
Today we will have an adventure with Francoise to Basildon Park to see the house and gardens. Pat and Carol were taken to the train this morning by Tony who is the early riser. They will spend the day at Oxford, and by the looks of it they will have a nice day-we all will. It is now 21C and there is some blue sky with sun. At last!!!
Tony and Francoise will leave early tomorrow morning for France. Pat leaves Sunday morning for the US. Carol leaves Monday for Newcastle upon Tyne for her conference. I leave Wednesday to join Carol for a few days to explore Newcastle. I come back to Reading on Saturday and Carol goes to Heathrow to prepare to fly out early Sunday morning. The following Saturday Marcia goes back to the US. Tony has given me the invite to stay until time for me to leave, so it only remains for me to plan some adventures. As is uaually the case, I'm looking to pack some of my things off with Marcia and lighten my load for the rest of the journey.
We will have use of Tony's car starting tomorrow, so getting around will be quite easy. I'll probably get a bus pass either tomorrow or Monday. The Calcot bus has changed from pink purple to yellow and there are new hybrid busses!! Perhaps Sunday we will take the day off and get some photos edited and on the blog.
In house with us will be Mark. You may remember that Mark is a policeman. In house police protection and tech support for both computers and the running of the house plus good company and excellet guide to local pubs-such a good deal. We are promised a trip to Sweeney Todd's Pie House soon. He has also set up a fly fishing trip for Marcia with a nuclear physicist fly fisherman. What could be better (for Marcia)???
So, much good company and food and many adventures ahead.
KG
Wednesday, July 11, 2012
Goodbye to Plymouth
Just as I predicted, Pat and Carol's arrival has speeded up the pace and bloging has had to wait. We have had some lovely adventures in spite of the cold and rain and not really feeling 100% ourselves. Pat and Carol and I got a day of adventures in Plymouth including a ride in the ferris wheel. I spent the first half of our day out wondering why my camera wasn't working. Our little break for coffee at Costa's put my brain in order again and I discovered a battery in the bottom of my backpack and compensated for a morning without it by taking 7,000 photos of the Charles Church. Could take some time to edit them all, but many will make their way to the blog, I am sure.
Yesterday we took the train to St Austell where we took the bus to The Eden Project. Perhaps the cold and rain helping out some as it wasn't as crowded as I expected. Photos to follow. It's a sort of green Disney.
Today we opted for some adventures in Plymouth. Pat and Carol saw the aquarium and I joined them at the Plymouth Museum for a tour of the permanent exhibit of history of the area from the stone age and the one room show of Women in Art on the second floor. I'm not so much a fan of natural history so I skipped that side of the museum as well as the beetle-mania collection.
There was an interesting project going on to recast pottery from people's private collections, but the recast pieces were displayed in little glass boxes above a bench so that all you would reallly see well were the bottoms. I though the project was a great idea, but was quickly bored with all the bottoms.
Tomorrow we leave the castle for Reading. Already our friend, Mark, is planning to pick us up at the train station. We shall see how that will be done. He can probably get most of us in and I will take the Calcot bus home.
Pat and Carol have plans for a trip to Oxford and possibly the theater in London on Saturday. I'll keep you posted.
KG
Yesterday we took the train to St Austell where we took the bus to The Eden Project. Perhaps the cold and rain helping out some as it wasn't as crowded as I expected. Photos to follow. It's a sort of green Disney.
Today we opted for some adventures in Plymouth. Pat and Carol saw the aquarium and I joined them at the Plymouth Museum for a tour of the permanent exhibit of history of the area from the stone age and the one room show of Women in Art on the second floor. I'm not so much a fan of natural history so I skipped that side of the museum as well as the beetle-mania collection.
There was an interesting project going on to recast pottery from people's private collections, but the recast pieces were displayed in little glass boxes above a bench so that all you would reallly see well were the bottoms. I though the project was a great idea, but was quickly bored with all the bottoms.
Tomorrow we leave the castle for Reading. Already our friend, Mark, is planning to pick us up at the train station. We shall see how that will be done. He can probably get most of us in and I will take the Calcot bus home.
Pat and Carol have plans for a trip to Oxford and possibly the theater in London on Saturday. I'll keep you posted.
KG
Sunday, July 08, 2012
Reflections on Russia
I realized this morning that we really didn't blog much about our time in Russia, Helsinki and Estonia. As you know, we were run ragged by the schedule. The photo blog tells a story, but I'll try to fill in the gaps.
All of these cities have links in history and culture. In Stockholm and Helsinki we heard the same customs with a tiny variation. The Finns and the Estonians share a language base and though they are not easily understood by each other, they can manage some of the time and with more frequent contact could develop an ear for the other language. They both said that they could never understannd Magyar, the Hungarian language that is in the same language group as theirs.
Finnland and Estonia have both been swept into Soviet Russia. It must be said that historically they were under the control of Russia from time to time as well. They all share the common fate of nations of the north-they were isolated by the weather for much of the year until the advent of ice breaking ships in the 20th century. This is not to say that they didn't get around by land, but it took amazing resources to go long distances in winter.
Sweden and Russia have a history of wars for territory and more subtle political maneuvering as the Swedish king was of the same ruling families as the rest of Europe. Just like my family in Nassau County, they were all related to each other one way or six.
Religion has played a major part in how thing have gone and go on. Our guide in Stockholm said "We were Catholic for 500 years and then we changed to Protestant for the past 300." For my American mind, this requires quite the paradigm shift. It has to do with monarchy and religion and it must go something like: the king, who is God's representitive on earth, has had a revelation about theology, so we must get on the bus. These differences in thinking flow over to other aspects of life and have created different societies. Amazing that we remain alike in so many ways. One difference that comes to mind is our view of police survalence. Europeans have traditionally put their fate in the hands of a monarch and have gradually developed ways of tweeking the monarch's power. The pattern is for a decision to be made for the public good and if it rankles the people Parliament will deal with it. Of course, you are well aware of the American way of dealing with public good.
Although we went to a church in Helsinki I could not tell you if it was Catholic or Protestant, though I would be more likely to guess Protestant. Estonia is predominately Protestant. You will remember that their roots are German. Apparently the switch to Luther was one of the forces that lead to the downfall of the Hanseatic League, but I don't know enough about that to talk about it. Estonia also has a significant Russian population-hence the Russian Orthodox Cathedral of Alexander Nevsky.
It was interesting to me that we could not photograph in the Estonian cathedral or Lutheran Church and all of the cathedrals of Russia were tourist meccas. We actually went inside the cathedral in Estonia while mass was being said and there were a handfull of people including some fairly young people. Can you think of a church in the US that doesn't allow photography. OK, the Mormon Tabernacle doesn't even let non-Mormons in some of the rooms, but the big sanctuary is open to photographing I think.
One might think after about 100 years of non-religion in Russia there would be no believers left. In the Peter and Paul Cathedral I saw a few babushka women making the sign of the cross when passing tombs of dead tzars. What stories has this woman been hearing? Tanya told us that there are more churches now than in Soviet times.
Just looking at the skyline of Tallin tells us that there is economic activity going on. Stockholm and Sweden's economic activity is very familiar to us. Is there anyone left in the world who doesn't have an IKEA item in the house? In Russia gasoline is about 1.50 euro per liter. Much less than in all the rest of Europe. Did you see the photos of the big super highways going to Peterhof and passing the palace of the current president?
I asked about the ice cream I remembered having in Moscow in 1990. You got it from vending machines on the street and it cost the equivalent of pennies in US currency. It came in a round stick about the size of a stick of butter and probably had about the same butter fat content. I couldn't finish my whole stick it was so rich. These things are gone now. Probably they were the result of government owned farms and processing plants. However, also gone are the queues. In Moscow in 1990 people never left home without a big shopping bag. Consumer goods were in short supply and the food in the store windows wasn't that great either. A truck would pull up on a street and a queue would form immediately. People didn't necessarily know what they were queueing for, but it would have been in short supply and if they didn't need it they could trade it or gift it with the understanding that a gift that they needed would come their way, or sell it. They would buy as much as they could carry. Cigarettes were always in short supply. We got into restaurants with cigarettes and repaid hitched rides. Winstons were particularly prized. Who doesn't love a cowboy.
That reminds me, and I digress here, of a woman that I sat next to on the bus in Plymouth last week. Her dream is to win the lottery and go to America where she will drive a Harley across country. Mind you, she is asthmatic and surely has as many meds as I do, so presumably her saddle bags will be full of meds but that didn't seem to be part of the fantasy and why would it be. She wants to stay overnnight in a TC on an Indian reservation.
Back to the Baltic.
Alcoholism is a major problem in this whole area of the Baltic. Neighboring countries to Sweden make a few bucks on selling alcohol to them without the high taxes they pay in Sweden. It also keeps the ferries running. We saw a terrible auto wreck as we were driving to the airport in Stockholm. The car had clearly rolled and the ambulance attenants were wheeling a gurney with a closed body bag. It was mid morning. Could have been simply an accident, but one always wonders if it might have been alcohol involved. It's a big problem here.
As I have said before, we were run ragged. Cruising was a great way for us to see Russia for the first time. Getting around always requires a lot of energy and some trial and error, so all of that is done for us when we take the cruise excursions. In addition, we have lots of choice for food, and on Olivia the entertainent is a big draw. The down side is that we want to make the most of our time and enjoy everything, so we were pushed by our desires to do way too much for us. I would like to go back to St Petersburg and spend time in the Hermitage and generally walking around the city. I have seen enough of the Peterhof and Catherine Palace and the Yusupov Palace. They are in the same catagory as Versailles in my book-once is enough. I'm not all that intrigued with over the top spleandor and find myself wanting to go to a Scan design studio for some visual relief.
I do find Russian history fascinating. I am rereading the Catherine II biography with more interest now that I have a visual context. It might as well be science fiction-such a different time and thinking. Well, some things different.
Adventures will probably pick up here soon. Pat and Carol will arrive today. I'm watching out the window for their taxi. I suspect they will be some tired somebodies. The flight alone will kick one's butt and they have to find the cash machine and the Heathrow Reading bus at the airport and make their way to Reading station where they will transfer to the train that takes them to Plymouth where they will catch a cab to the castle. I suspect their beds in the dungeon will look good to them. BTW, the sun is shining.
KG
All of these cities have links in history and culture. In Stockholm and Helsinki we heard the same customs with a tiny variation. The Finns and the Estonians share a language base and though they are not easily understood by each other, they can manage some of the time and with more frequent contact could develop an ear for the other language. They both said that they could never understannd Magyar, the Hungarian language that is in the same language group as theirs.
Finnland and Estonia have both been swept into Soviet Russia. It must be said that historically they were under the control of Russia from time to time as well. They all share the common fate of nations of the north-they were isolated by the weather for much of the year until the advent of ice breaking ships in the 20th century. This is not to say that they didn't get around by land, but it took amazing resources to go long distances in winter.
Sweden and Russia have a history of wars for territory and more subtle political maneuvering as the Swedish king was of the same ruling families as the rest of Europe. Just like my family in Nassau County, they were all related to each other one way or six.
Religion has played a major part in how thing have gone and go on. Our guide in Stockholm said "We were Catholic for 500 years and then we changed to Protestant for the past 300." For my American mind, this requires quite the paradigm shift. It has to do with monarchy and religion and it must go something like: the king, who is God's representitive on earth, has had a revelation about theology, so we must get on the bus. These differences in thinking flow over to other aspects of life and have created different societies. Amazing that we remain alike in so many ways. One difference that comes to mind is our view of police survalence. Europeans have traditionally put their fate in the hands of a monarch and have gradually developed ways of tweeking the monarch's power. The pattern is for a decision to be made for the public good and if it rankles the people Parliament will deal with it. Of course, you are well aware of the American way of dealing with public good.
Although we went to a church in Helsinki I could not tell you if it was Catholic or Protestant, though I would be more likely to guess Protestant. Estonia is predominately Protestant. You will remember that their roots are German. Apparently the switch to Luther was one of the forces that lead to the downfall of the Hanseatic League, but I don't know enough about that to talk about it. Estonia also has a significant Russian population-hence the Russian Orthodox Cathedral of Alexander Nevsky.
It was interesting to me that we could not photograph in the Estonian cathedral or Lutheran Church and all of the cathedrals of Russia were tourist meccas. We actually went inside the cathedral in Estonia while mass was being said and there were a handfull of people including some fairly young people. Can you think of a church in the US that doesn't allow photography. OK, the Mormon Tabernacle doesn't even let non-Mormons in some of the rooms, but the big sanctuary is open to photographing I think.
One might think after about 100 years of non-religion in Russia there would be no believers left. In the Peter and Paul Cathedral I saw a few babushka women making the sign of the cross when passing tombs of dead tzars. What stories has this woman been hearing? Tanya told us that there are more churches now than in Soviet times.
Just looking at the skyline of Tallin tells us that there is economic activity going on. Stockholm and Sweden's economic activity is very familiar to us. Is there anyone left in the world who doesn't have an IKEA item in the house? In Russia gasoline is about 1.50 euro per liter. Much less than in all the rest of Europe. Did you see the photos of the big super highways going to Peterhof and passing the palace of the current president?
I asked about the ice cream I remembered having in Moscow in 1990. You got it from vending machines on the street and it cost the equivalent of pennies in US currency. It came in a round stick about the size of a stick of butter and probably had about the same butter fat content. I couldn't finish my whole stick it was so rich. These things are gone now. Probably they were the result of government owned farms and processing plants. However, also gone are the queues. In Moscow in 1990 people never left home without a big shopping bag. Consumer goods were in short supply and the food in the store windows wasn't that great either. A truck would pull up on a street and a queue would form immediately. People didn't necessarily know what they were queueing for, but it would have been in short supply and if they didn't need it they could trade it or gift it with the understanding that a gift that they needed would come their way, or sell it. They would buy as much as they could carry. Cigarettes were always in short supply. We got into restaurants with cigarettes and repaid hitched rides. Winstons were particularly prized. Who doesn't love a cowboy.
That reminds me, and I digress here, of a woman that I sat next to on the bus in Plymouth last week. Her dream is to win the lottery and go to America where she will drive a Harley across country. Mind you, she is asthmatic and surely has as many meds as I do, so presumably her saddle bags will be full of meds but that didn't seem to be part of the fantasy and why would it be. She wants to stay overnnight in a TC on an Indian reservation.
Back to the Baltic.
Alcoholism is a major problem in this whole area of the Baltic. Neighboring countries to Sweden make a few bucks on selling alcohol to them without the high taxes they pay in Sweden. It also keeps the ferries running. We saw a terrible auto wreck as we were driving to the airport in Stockholm. The car had clearly rolled and the ambulance attenants were wheeling a gurney with a closed body bag. It was mid morning. Could have been simply an accident, but one always wonders if it might have been alcohol involved. It's a big problem here.
As I have said before, we were run ragged. Cruising was a great way for us to see Russia for the first time. Getting around always requires a lot of energy and some trial and error, so all of that is done for us when we take the cruise excursions. In addition, we have lots of choice for food, and on Olivia the entertainent is a big draw. The down side is that we want to make the most of our time and enjoy everything, so we were pushed by our desires to do way too much for us. I would like to go back to St Petersburg and spend time in the Hermitage and generally walking around the city. I have seen enough of the Peterhof and Catherine Palace and the Yusupov Palace. They are in the same catagory as Versailles in my book-once is enough. I'm not all that intrigued with over the top spleandor and find myself wanting to go to a Scan design studio for some visual relief.
I do find Russian history fascinating. I am rereading the Catherine II biography with more interest now that I have a visual context. It might as well be science fiction-such a different time and thinking. Well, some things different.
Adventures will probably pick up here soon. Pat and Carol will arrive today. I'm watching out the window for their taxi. I suspect they will be some tired somebodies. The flight alone will kick one's butt and they have to find the cash machine and the Heathrow Reading bus at the airport and make their way to Reading station where they will transfer to the train that takes them to Plymouth where they will catch a cab to the castle. I suspect their beds in the dungeon will look good to them. BTW, the sun is shining.
KG
Saturday, July 07, 2012
Sloppy Saturday
The rain continues to come at us... Only today the temp is 57 degrees and started at 52 degrees this morning. It was necessary to turn on the heat... In July! I will not complain since I do know the temps at home these days.
Been wearing my jacket all day. Neither of us are willing to brave the cold and wet just to have an adventure. I have just about recovered from the cold that arrived last week. Seems it is going around the UK from the news and the housekeeper that came on Wednesday had a similar cough to mine and she said it had been two weeks of the hacking for her. I just hope this gives me some immunity for the fall and winter season at home.
Kay and I both agree that we have been very fortunate with our visits to the UK and never had such persistent rain that is quite common here. The news casters seem to say that is sort of normal except for the temperatures of late. Things have been much worse up in Yorksire with major flooding from the abundant rain they have had the last three weeks. It has been a gift of sorts that has made us both rest and recover from our ills and we look forward or a change in Reading this week.
mdt
Been wearing my jacket all day. Neither of us are willing to brave the cold and wet just to have an adventure. I have just about recovered from the cold that arrived last week. Seems it is going around the UK from the news and the housekeeper that came on Wednesday had a similar cough to mine and she said it had been two weeks of the hacking for her. I just hope this gives me some immunity for the fall and winter season at home.
Kay and I both agree that we have been very fortunate with our visits to the UK and never had such persistent rain that is quite common here. The news casters seem to say that is sort of normal except for the temperatures of late. Things have been much worse up in Yorksire with major flooding from the abundant rain they have had the last three weeks. It has been a gift of sorts that has made us both rest and recover from our ills and we look forward or a change in Reading this week.
mdt
Thursday, July 05, 2012
Castle News
I hardly rained at all today. It spit on us once but that hardly counts. Additionally, I had to take out my sunglasses twice today.
After a late breakfast for me and easing into the morning, we took the Graham bus into town. I was a bit peaved at Graham today as he had us get off a stop early even when I said we were going to Debenhams. At Debenhams we met the city bus people and began to learn that the bus system is way too complicated for us. There is a website, but the 5 and 5A routes are not listed and it's just very complicated. Nevertheless, we got bus passes for a week and made our way to the Mayflower Steps.
It's not a big production number, but there are several plaques about the Mayflower and other ships that have sailed from this spot. Several of them went to Australia from Plymouth. Since it is a tourist area, they have located the tourist information office there. The information lady gave us several tips including how to get to the train station. The thing is that we will have to take the Graham bus to the Royal Parade where all the busses stop, and then change for a bus that takes us to a stop near the train station and we walk a few blocks to the station. We are thinking that when Pat and Carol get here and we take off for Cornwall it will be much simpler to just call a taxi and split the fare 4 ways. Even though we have a bus pass, we have to pay for the Graham bus which is owned by another company. I blame this all on Margaret Thatcher.
So, we had a lovely lunch near the Mayflower Steps. I ordered moules and frits traditionale. They were nothing like French moules. Garlic has never gone near them. The mussels themselves were fine but the broth was rather insipid. Marcia got fish and chips, but what arrived was a ham steak with fried egg on top. It went back and the breaded fish atop very chunky potato wedges soon arrived. The fish was basically good, and I do mean basic. There was a bit of saffron in the breading, but it was a bit greasy and other than saffron there was not much spice to it. They say that British cuisene is changing, but I suspect the taste buds of the people, and we are talking about my cousins here, makes them crave bland. The mint in Marcias mashed peas does not count. To tell you the truth, even the Ganges restaurant where I had lunch earlier in the week had de spiced the food to some extent. I remember tasting cardoman in the rice and feeling practically exhilarated. Luckily we have a kitchen and Marcia knows how to spice.
We have become hooked on the par baked baguettes that come in a package of two maybe 15 inches long. Tonight we had them with our favorite Cheddar and Minestrone soup that was quite good. Last night we had a Thai soup to which Marcia added leftover roti chicken and fresh basil and it was kick butt. The galanga had just enough burn in it to soothe our aching throats.
Speaking of health, we are (do I dare say it??) pretty much back. I hear Marcia hack occasionally and we are both tired and the damp cold has penetrated to our arthritic joints. I am oh so thankful to Dr. P for the tramadol that fixes everything when we get home. Tramadol and a power nap and I am good to go.
I made an appointment to get my hair cut tomorrow. It is across the street from Morrisons, so plan A is to take the car and park in the Morrison's lot and then do some shopping afterward. Wish me luck.
KG
After a late breakfast for me and easing into the morning, we took the Graham bus into town. I was a bit peaved at Graham today as he had us get off a stop early even when I said we were going to Debenhams. At Debenhams we met the city bus people and began to learn that the bus system is way too complicated for us. There is a website, but the 5 and 5A routes are not listed and it's just very complicated. Nevertheless, we got bus passes for a week and made our way to the Mayflower Steps.
It's not a big production number, but there are several plaques about the Mayflower and other ships that have sailed from this spot. Several of them went to Australia from Plymouth. Since it is a tourist area, they have located the tourist information office there. The information lady gave us several tips including how to get to the train station. The thing is that we will have to take the Graham bus to the Royal Parade where all the busses stop, and then change for a bus that takes us to a stop near the train station and we walk a few blocks to the station. We are thinking that when Pat and Carol get here and we take off for Cornwall it will be much simpler to just call a taxi and split the fare 4 ways. Even though we have a bus pass, we have to pay for the Graham bus which is owned by another company. I blame this all on Margaret Thatcher.
So, we had a lovely lunch near the Mayflower Steps. I ordered moules and frits traditionale. They were nothing like French moules. Garlic has never gone near them. The mussels themselves were fine but the broth was rather insipid. Marcia got fish and chips, but what arrived was a ham steak with fried egg on top. It went back and the breaded fish atop very chunky potato wedges soon arrived. The fish was basically good, and I do mean basic. There was a bit of saffron in the breading, but it was a bit greasy and other than saffron there was not much spice to it. They say that British cuisene is changing, but I suspect the taste buds of the people, and we are talking about my cousins here, makes them crave bland. The mint in Marcias mashed peas does not count. To tell you the truth, even the Ganges restaurant where I had lunch earlier in the week had de spiced the food to some extent. I remember tasting cardoman in the rice and feeling practically exhilarated. Luckily we have a kitchen and Marcia knows how to spice.
We have become hooked on the par baked baguettes that come in a package of two maybe 15 inches long. Tonight we had them with our favorite Cheddar and Minestrone soup that was quite good. Last night we had a Thai soup to which Marcia added leftover roti chicken and fresh basil and it was kick butt. The galanga had just enough burn in it to soothe our aching throats.
Speaking of health, we are (do I dare say it??) pretty much back. I hear Marcia hack occasionally and we are both tired and the damp cold has penetrated to our arthritic joints. I am oh so thankful to Dr. P for the tramadol that fixes everything when we get home. Tramadol and a power nap and I am good to go.
I made an appointment to get my hair cut tomorrow. It is across the street from Morrisons, so plan A is to take the car and park in the Morrison's lot and then do some shopping afterward. Wish me luck.
KG
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